Altitude
Welcome to the July edition of the l’Art du Vin wine club!
To us, this feels like the first ‘normal’ summer in Scotland for some time, as tourism seems to have truly bounced back. However there is no doubt our industry is still in a challenging position – this week alone we have seen 3 well-known central belt restaurants announce that they are closing their doors. As a business, we simply need to focus on making sure we do what we do best – finding exciting, artisan wines that offer our customers both pleasure and value for money. As such, I hope that you enjoy this month’s selection!
July’s wines in focus all have one thing in common – altitude!
Altitude has become a key talking point in wine over the past few years. The phrase 'high-altitude vineyards' is increasingly being used on wine labels as a selling point.
As the globe gets warmer, vines grown at high altitude give winemakers the ability to capture freshness, finesse and balance. The grapes receive enough warmth during the sunshine of the day, yet the vine then has the chance to rest and recover at night when the temperature drops. When this temperature differentiation doesn’t take place, the resulting wine can often be jammy or confected as the grapes over-ripen and lack complexity.
Of course, producing wines in such conditions can be challenging. Often high-altitude slopes are steep and/or remote. As a result, generally less vineyard practices can be mechanised and many tasks become extremely labour intensive. In some cases, vineyard workers may even have to strap themselves in to harnesses to tend to the vines on the steepest slopes.
While the wines in this case are from all corners of the globe, they have a similar ‘high-altitude DNA’ that runs through them – balance, bright acidity and freshness of fruit. I hope that you enjoy them.
As I sign off this month, I want to thank you for your ongoing support. As always, if you have any feedback on your wine club experience then please do get in touch.
Wishing you all a wonderful summer!
Cheers
Philippe
Sauvignon Blanc ‘Casa Ambrosia’, Finca Ambrosia, Mendoza, Argentina 2022
Producer
Finca Ambrosia came to life in 2002 when a group of wine lovers joined forces with the ambition of producing gastronomic, terroir-driven wines that showed the intricacies and nuances of the district of Gualtallary in Mendoza’s Uco Valley.
Nowadays, the estate covers an area of 65 hectares, comprising site-specific sub-plots that ensure all varieties are cultivated in small parcels that will bring the best possible results. This painstaking approach has been spearheaded by globally renowned Chilean terroir expert Pedro Parra, ensuring the Ambrosia team maximise the full potential of their unique spot in the Valley.
Such has been the rise of Finca Ambrosia’s reputation that, as well as producing their own signature wines, their fruit has now become some of the most sought after in the region, with a handful of high end producers now turning to them to purchase grapes for special, one-off bottlings.
The ‘Casa Ambrosia’ range is centred around the production of wines that display purity of fruit and freshness from the high-altitude vines of Gualtallary.
2022 was a long and dry growing season of outstanding quality. Veering on the cooler side of average temperatures, yields were still plentiful, and grapes achieved ideal ripeness throughout a very long cycle. Rainfall was limited, but abundant glacial water and sporadic showers were timed perfectly to help the vine’s balance. After cooler autumn and ideal growing conditions in February and March, the team we able to produce wines with remarkable quality.
Tasting Note
This Sauvignon Blanc is an expressive dry white wine with crisp acidity and great varietal typicity. Expect bold fruit flavours of tropical mango and pineapple, complemented by moderate herbaceous undertones and culminating with a round, refreshing palate.
Food Pairing
Delicious when partnered with white meats, vegetables like asparagus or fresh tomatoes.
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Malbec ‘Casa Ambrosia’, Finca Ambrosia, Mendoza, Argentina 2022
Producer
Finca Ambrosia came to life in 2002 when a group of wine lovers joined forces with the ambition of producing gastronomic, terroir-driven wines that showed the intricacies and nuances of the district of Gualtallary in Mendoza’s Uco Valley.
Nowadays, the estate covers an area of 65 hectares, comprising site-specific sub-plots that ensure all varieties are cultivated in small parcels that will bring the best possible results. This painstaking approach has been spearheaded by globally renowned Chilean terroir expert Pedro Parra, ensuring the Ambrosia team maximise the full potential of their unique spot in the Valley.
Such has been the rise of Finca Ambrosia’s reputation that, as well as producing their own signature wines, their fruit has now become some of the most sought after in the region, with a handful of high end producers now turning to them to purchase grapes for special, one-off bottlings.
The ‘Casa Ambrosia’ range is centred around the production of wines that display purity of fruit and freshness from the high-altitude vines of Gualtallary.
2022 was a long and dry growing season of outstanding quality. Veering on the cooler side of average temperatures, yields were still plentiful, and grapes achieved ideal ripeness throughout a very long cycle. Rainfall was limited, but abundant glacial water and sporadic showers were timed perfectly to help the vine’s balance. After cooler autumn and ideal growing conditions in February and March, the team we able to produce wines with remarkable quality.
Tasting Note
The Casa Malbec is a youthful, unoaked Malbec which can be enjoyed with or without food. On the nose, it shows notes of sweet raspberry marmalade, very ripe cherries, and blueberries. On the palate, the wine is bright and fruit-forward, with great density and defined Malbec character. The moderate tannins are ripe and velvety, adding to the wine’s overall appeal.
Food Pairing
A wine to be embraced this bbq season! Ideal with grilled red meat. However this wine is light enough that it can be enjoyed solo, it doesn’t require a gastronomic partner!
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Jurancon Sec ‘Vitatge Vielh’, Clos Lapeyre, Jura, France 2019
Producer
The vines used for Clos Lapeyre Jurancon Sec face southwards towards the hound's-tooth Pic du Midi d'Ossau with maximum exposure to sunlight yet simultaneously protected from strong winds.
The 12 hectare vineyard has been exhaustively mapped and analysed for soil composition to obtain a profile of the microbial activity in the vineyard and as a result divided into twelve segments, each of which are treated according to how the soil, and, by definition, the vine needs to be nourished.
Jean-Bernard Larrieu is one of the best regarded producers in Jurançon, and the Clos Lapeyre Jurancon Sec his creation.
For three generations, the Larrieu family has been growing vines on an area of their estate traditionally used for mixed farming. They made their first vintage in 1985.
Jean-Bernard Larrieu, his father, Marcel, and the rest of the team at Clos Lapeyre tend to the vines on the steep hillsides facing the Pyrenees. Because of the steep incline, some 9 ha (19 acres) of the estate are planted on terraces.
Tasting Note
A beautifully balanced blend of 60% Gros Manseng, 30% Petit Manseng and 10% Courbu. Expect a rich nose with particularly ripe notes of ample candied fruit. The palate is very expressive, packed with spice, smooth structure and toasted notes. Quite simply a wonderfully vibrant wine, rich, balanced, ripe and complex.
Food Pairing
Try it with fish dishes, grilled chicken or roast veal with mushroom sauce.
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Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva, Castel Firmian, Trentino Alto Adige, Italy 2019
Producer
Castel Firmian is a co-operative made up of likeminded, quality-driven growers throughout the Trentino region.
70% of their combined harvest comes from areas which are located in DOCG appellations. The vines which contribute fruit to the project run from the foot of the Italian Dolomites to the plains around Lake Garda.
As a result of this wide topographical area, the team are able to select only the best quality fruit each year to fashion the single-varietal cuvees for which they have become best known.
It is a common misconception that all wine co-operatives produce poor quality wines in big volumes. In actual fact, there are many co-ops out there who produce exciting wines that truly speak of their terroirs.
A co-op is where a winery buys in grapes from a network of grape growers and makes their own-labelled wine. This has been a business model in the wine world for centuries and is particularly common among the best-known wineries of Champagne.
There are a number of reasons that a grape grower may opt to sell their fruit to a co-op. Winemaking equipment is expensive, the production of wine is a supremely complex skill and many growers simply don’t produce fruit in sufficient quantities to produce enough wine to form the basis of a viable business.
That’s where quality co-ops step in and, when they are as diligent in their quality control process as the team at Castel Firmian, the resulting wines can be a real treat!
The Teroldego grape variety takes its name from its traditional method of cultivation, trained on a system of “tirelle” or wire harnesses.
Tasting Note
If you are a fan of Syrah then this lesser-known Italian grape variety could be for you! A complex bouquet is dominated by hints of blueberry, plum and red currant, backed up by spicy notes derived from aging in oak barrels. The palate is full-bodied and rich with well-balanced acidity.
Food Pairing
A wine of great character, it will match well with grilled red meats or hard cheeses.
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