Semillon and Rioja Crianza
Hello and welcome to the October edition of the l’Art du Vin wine club!
I hope that you are all well and enjoyed the Pinot Grigio and Shiraz comparative case last month. This selection has a similar theme, as we again look to compare two key wine styles.
In the whites, we are focusing on the often-unheralded Semillon. I think Semillon is a wonderful variety – when it is treated well. It is particularly important in France where it is a key constituent part of some of the world’s finest sweet wines hailing from Sauternes and Barsac.
However, this month, we aren’t in France but instead sampling examples from Australia and Argentina. Both styles are from cooler climates, where the thin-skinned Semillon grape is protected from over-ripening and can produce wines that are zippy, fresh and energetic.
Our red pairing sees two Rioja Crianza face off against each other. On one side, we have the classic Tempranillo-dominant blend from Marques de Tomares. In contrast, we have a brand new wine to our range from the estate of Heraclio Alfaro which, more unusually, is Garnacha heavy and, as a result, far more fruit-forward and juicy.
Crucially, in the interests of fair comparison, both are designated ‘Crianza’, which in Rioja means they must spend a minimum of one year ageing in oak barrels and a further year in bottle before being released. I am interested to see which wine comes out on top in your own personal pecking order so please do get in touch with your feedback.
As always, I would like to thank you for your continued support.
I hope that you enjoy the selection.
Cheers!
Philippe
Semillon/Torrontes, Ballena del Sur, Valle de Uco, Argentina 2022
Producer
Ballena del Sur is an exciting new project born through the collaboration of natural wine importer Les Caves de Pyrene and winemaking superstar Sebastian Zuccardi.
Sebastian is third generation owner and head winemaker at Zuccardi, one of Argentina's most important and innovative wineries. His general focus is exploring new terroirs and developing organic viticulture – an ethos that perfectly sums up the Ballena del Sur range.
Tasting Notes
Gently aromatic, the cool climate lends freshness while there is plenty of juicy texture and a zip on the finish. Semilion gives the main drive of the wine - with freshness and herbal notes, while a dash of Torrontes (25%) gives a hint of lychee and pineapple. The finish is pithy, textural and fresh all the same time.
Food Pairing
The presence of the fragrant Torrontes grape variety in this blend opens up a different gastronomic world compared to straight Semillon. Try it with dishes like coconut curry, chicken teriyaki or Thai peanut curries.
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Semillon, Karri Vineyards, Margaret River, Australia 2022
Producer
Named for the indigenous word for the eucalyptus forests which surround the vineyards, Karri is a fully organic and biodynamic winery.
They believe that holistically caring for all the nature in and around the vineyards improves their wine.
Their wines highlight the fact that there is still value for money to be found in cool climate Australia if you seek it out carefully.
Tasting Notes
A particularly delightful, zippy Semillon bursting with notes of lime zest, greengage and yellow plums.
Food Pairing
Fresh styles of Semillon such as this pair well with seafood dishes like grilled fish, oysters, and salt and pepper squid. Also a great option as an aperitif.
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Rioja Crianza, Marques de Tomares, Rioja, Spain 2020
Producer
Located in Fuenmayor, in the heart of Rioja Alta, the Marqués de Tomares winery has been controlled by the Montaña family since the 19th Century. Their wines all possess the key hallmarks of the estate – elegance, finesse and quality of fruit.
Tasting Notes
This Crianza boasts a blend of red and black fruit flavours, backed up with a hint of spice and an impressive tannic structure. The blend is dominated by Tempranillo and rounded off with Graciano, both of which are painstakingly harvested by hand.
Food Pairing
An ideal pairing to classic Spanish fare such as cured meats, Manchego and roasted vegetables. Beyond Spanish cuisine, Tempranillo-based wines such as this go well with tomato-based dishes like pizza, lasagna, and pasta arrabbiata.
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Rioja Crianza, Heraclio Alfaro, Rioja, Spain 2020
Producer
Located in the eastern reaches of Rioja, this vineyard was historically home to an airfield. Heraclio Alfaro is one of Spain’s most famous aviation pioneers – thus this cuvee is very much an homage to him and his desire for innovation and constant curiosity.
This particular wine is a blend from two distinct vineyard sites. Tempranillo and Graciano are grown on the flatter land, where the soils are loamy and allow good ripening. These are blended with Garnacha grown on clay soils on vineyards at much higher altitude, bringing a crucial dash of freshness and acidity to the blend. This balance is only improved by a maturation process involving 12 months in French oak barrels.
Tasting Notes
The fact that this blend is Garnacha heavy is unusual in Rioja (where Tempranillo is normally the dominant variety). As a result, expect bags of wild fruit, underpinned by floral and spiced notes before a long, smooth and balanced finish.
Food Pairing
A wine that is equally at home when paired with lamb or beef as well as poultry, pork or even heavier fish dishes. Also, thanks to being Garnacha-heavy, a Rioja Crianza that is deliciously easy to drink on its own!
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